Part 3 of “Across Countries and Cultures: A Journeyer for Truth”
Reality Takes Hold
The first time seeing the ocean is a profound experience for everyone. For someone who comes from a completely landlocked country though, the experience is overwhelming. The act of boarding a ship and losing sight of any land mass whatsoever is beyond fathoming. Reality was now truly sinking in for Ján, he was gone for good now. His journey to freedom had entered its final stage. Looking out over the rails of the S.S. Breslau into the great abyss, Ján was gripped by the magnitude of what he had accomplished and the gut wrenching fear of what yet lay ahead.
He had passed his twenty-first birthday without mention on his flight to freedom. Now, knowing no one aboard this massive ship, save for the acquaintance of the family that recused him at port, Ján was left with only his thoughts. Had he made the right decision? Although he knew instinctively that he had, fear and loneliness play tricks on the mind and can make a man rue his own conscience.
Taking the Breslau to Freedom
The S.S. Breslau had been built for the North German Lloyd Company some years earlier for their Bremen-Baltimore-Gulf route. The ship would leave Bremen, and as was advertised by the company “arrive in Baltimore harbor 11 days and 13 hours later.” After stopping in Baltimore the ship would then travel down the Atlantic seaboard and into the Gulf of Mexico to Galveston, Texas, before returning to Bremen. It was a 7500 ton vessel that could travel at a speed of 13 knots. While there was some sixty first and second class accommodations, Ján travelled as one of the sixteen hundred third class steerage passengers. As he waited alone in his cramped, dark quarters he thought and dreamed.
For someone who had never travelled on water before the voyage had been a nauseous adventure, so the temptation to disembark at Baltimore had been great. Ján had made commitments though and he knew that the Czech Brethren were expecting him in Texas. Three more days aboard the ship and he would once again have dry land beneath his heels. Even though it was September and fall was fast approaching, as the ship rounded the tip of Florida Ján found himself in a climate he had never experienced before. The humidity and the swarms of mosquitos were so thick that he was absolutely miserable.
Gleaming Rays Mark End of Journey to Freedom
As the Breslau approached the glistening new seawall at the port of Galveston a wave of elation flooded over Ján. Grateful both for finally reaching land and for the promise of the new adventure which awaited. It had now been almost a month since he had kissed his mother goodbye. Two full weeks since narrowly escaping capture at the port of Bremen. Here in the hot, sticky Texas sun he finally breathed the air of freedom.
Although he was a man of many languages, English was one he was not yet familiar with. Trying to decipher his way through the bustle of immigrants getting off the boat, Ján found himself confused and distracted by authority figures pointing and yelling in a strange dialect. Fortunately, some German-speaking men he had befriended on board spoke some broken English and were able to help him navigate towards the customs bureau. The thrill of arrival had now been displaced with the fear of rejection. Would he be allowed entrance into this new country of hopes and dreams?
Walking Into Freedom
Hurriedly looking for his documents as he was waved forward, Ján could sense his entire existence hanging in the balance. As the sweat of primal fear gripped him, however, he was met only with an all business like port authority. “Name, Date, Country of Origin and Signature here please,” was all he was instructed to do. Almost as quickly as he had been ushered to the counter he was now being ushered, with his few meager belongings into the waiting area for the ferry to the mainland. It was over, his journey was done, he had gained freedom.
Freedom is a funny thing though. A person can be free in citizenship but still paralyzed by fear, a slave to prejudice, held captive by incomprehension. As Ján had exited the immigration booth he quickly grasped the superficiality of what freedom meant. In many ways, the worst part of the journey was over. He had fled across northern Europe, narrowly escaped arresting employees, and spent two weeks aboard a ship. Yet here he was, free in the land of opportunity, all alone, barely knowing the predominant language, only an address to go by.
It was two hundred and twenty miles to Holland, Texas. Ján had very little money in his pocket, no official currency of the United States. He was hungry, tired and knew no one. He was tired of using German to communicate, he hated the German language. Learning proficient English was his top priority. After sending postcards to his mother and sister Božená to alert them of his safe arrival, Ján once again set off, on foot.
Daydreaming Across Texas
Walking across Texas was much different than it had been walking across northern Germany. The late autumn sun beat down on him and the sweat pooled in his pores. Humidity that was so thick that it was hard to breathe was so very different than the high altitude of Valáško. And the food, beans and cornbread would take some getting used to, hopefully his journey to freedom would eventually be more palatable.
Just like when he had fled from home, Ján was intent on only one thing now, moving as quickly as possible. With any luck he could reach Holland in eight or nine days. As he walked his excitement grew and he began to daydream about the new life he was going to build in Holland. The advertisements had sounded so promising. A large population of immigrants from the Zlín area were there. There was a large Czech Brethren church and the church promised help with attaining employment in the community.
To Reinvent Oneself
Ján felt confident in his abilities, he was a skilled carpenter and farmer, and he knew how to manage animals. Yes, he was sure that he would be successful in this new land. Perhaps there would be a pretty Czech girl there, he was missing the girl he had left behind. She had only been a casual friend, they had both been young then, not ready for anything serious. Now though, Ján felt that he was older, more mature. Now he was having thoughts of marrying, settling down, raising a family. For the first time in his life he felt that his possibilities were endless.
As Ján neared Holland, Texas he was almost giddy with excitement. He had been fortunate to have been able to find Czech families to stay with along the way. Ready now to start finding a place of his own though, he was walking faster and faster towards his destiny. Holland was now only a day’s walk away. A few more miles and he would be in Holland. Ján simply couldn’t wait to see his new home, the end of his journey to freedom, and meet his sponsor, Vacláv, a man he only knew on paper thus far.
Part 4: The Czechs of Holland, Texas
Smazeny Syr (Czech Fried Cheese)
2
servings15
minutes10
minutesIngredients
1/2 pound Edam cheese, Gouda or Swiss, cut into 4 (1-inch-thick) slices
Kosher salt, to taste, optional
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 large egg, beaten
2/3 cup breadcrumbs
Oil, or shortening, for frying
Directions
- Gather the ingredients.
- Sprinkle cheese with optional salt, if desired.
- Dredge slices in flour, then in beaten egg, and finally in breadcrumbs, making sure cheese slices are completely covered.
- Pan fry quickly in hot oil or shortening until golden brown. Serve immediately.
Notes
- Often served with mayonnaise or any other favorite dipping sauce.